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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.